NC BACKCOUNTRY: Linville Gorge / Grandfather Mountain State Park

Being an outdoor enthusiast, I checked the weather channel for my traditional Thanksgiving weekend camping trip. Only hearing sunny skies and ignoring the warning for a cold front with 20 mph winds coming thru, I head out to Linville Gorge. Two hours later I pass the Linville Falls parking lot, following the dirt road along the ridge searching for a camping spot. The dust was kicking up and coating all the shrubbery that embraces the Service Road 1238 like glaze on a donut. Most of the closer campsites has been abandoned and is fading back into the forest. I did pass a favorite spot for our family that is still active and chose a nice open campsite with a fire still smoldering. With a naked forest, lacking the coverage of leaves, I can see spectacular views on both sides of the ridge line. There's only two other campsites occupied and three or four cars covered in dust at the trailhead of the Linville Gorge Trail. It seems to be getting colder and windy by the minute. Eating roasted hotdogs by the fire while watching the sunset. Bailey and I were wrapped up like a burrito within two sleeping bags and an old comforter listening to what I can only describe as the sounds of waves crashing on a nearby beach. The 20 mph wind was pounding the ridge in waves over and over all night. Bailey was like a 40 lb hand warmer generating a lot of heat but not quite enough to compensate the 18' mountain air. Why is it that the stars and moon is so much brighter and defined high up in the mountains? It was like nature in HD. Woke up pretty early then quickly drove down to Wiseman's View to get a better look at the sunrise rising over the ridge line on the opposite side of the gorge. On the way back I noticed that the two other campsites were now empty. I guess the cold had gotten to them and they left in the middle of the night. Back at camp, I made toast with honey and scramble eggs with ham, onion, cheese, and parsley. I noticed the cooler, gallon of tea, and water container were all frozen. Now, off to explore. I hiked the Bynum Bluff Trail, part of the Cabin Trail, the Hawksbill Trail and the Linville Falls Trail, all before noon. The Bynum Bluff Trail goes along the ridge about a mile to a pinnacle and ends abruptly at a drop off with trees obstructing what I imagine has to be a panoramic view of the gorge. The Cabin Trail ventures down into the gorge. The Hawksbill Trail connects to the Linville Falls Trail. The Linville Falls Trail heads down to the Upper and Lower Linville Falls as well as Erwin's Viewpoint and Chimney Viewpoint. Back at the truck, I headed out of Linville Gorge to nearby Grandfather Mountain. Driving up 221 to GMSP everyone and I mean everyone had a Christmas tree strapped to their car. Some had two or three. Grandfather Mountian State Park is $18 to enter but you will receive a CD offering a audio tour of the mountain, a flyer with a map, and a dog biscuit for Bailey. Half way up the 5946 ft mountain, I stopped at a picnic area to eat a ham sandwich left over from thanksgiving while observing a spectacular view and a wild fire off in the distance. The wind was so ferocious that it slammed my truck door open bending the hinges. I then walked up the Black Rock Trail to the top leading to the base of the swinging bridge. The wind was howling so much that the bridge was singing. Bailey crawled on his belly about 5 ft onto the swinging bridge before I had to retreat back to the truck and cross the bridge on my own. The wind was so cold that it would burn any exposed skin. I couldn't take many pictures due to shaking so much. The nearly 360' view of layers upon layers of various shades of blue mountain ranges was quite majestic and very much worth enduring the frigid wind. Once I returned to camp I made the decision to pack up, loaded up the truck, made adjustments with to my backpack, and headed down into the gorge. Hoping this will block the wind and maybe be a little warmer I hiked down the Linville Gorge Trail to the river. Nope, it's just as cold if not colder. I set up camp at a pre-existing campsite. Started a fire and made some soup for supper. Instead of the sounds of rolling wind, the river took over as it gushed along splitting the gorge in half. As tired as I was the morning came quick. After exploring the river for about an hour I packed up and hiked out. Back at the truck, I opened the tailgate and made breakfast; toast, eggs over easy, liver mush, and hot apple cider. I then travelled into Pisgah National Forest off NC181 where there's a turnout for the Upper Creek Falls trail head. This 1.8 mile loop trail descends to Upper Creek where the 100 ft Upper Creek Falls and the 15 ft Lower Creek Falls cascades down the mountain. The hike back up from the Lower Creek Falls was pretty strenuous with many switchbacks. Two miles pass the turnout is the Brown Mountain Overlook with panoramic views of Big Cedar Mountain, Little Cedar Mountain and Brown Mountain on one side of the road with Table Rock Mountain, Hawksbill Mountain, and Chimney Mountain on the other side. After a picnic lunch on the picnic tables at the overlook it's time to head home and warm up.

WNC State Parks: 14 Miles: 16

Grandfather Mountain State Park
From Charlotte take N-16 N to I-40 W to US 321 N to US 221 S to Grandfather Mountain entrance. Grandfather Mountain State Park is one of the newest state park with over 4000 acres was established in 2008. Calloway Peak is the highest point along the Blue Ridge Escarpment reaching an elevation of 5946 feet. At the entrance of the park is MacRae Meadows, the site for the annual Highland Games & Singing on the Mountain. Park fees are $18 and goes to the Stewardship Foundation to preserve Grandfather Mountain, operate the nature park in the public interest, and participate in educational and research activities. There are plenty of picnic areas thru-out the park. One picnic area has walking trails with informational kiosks for animals and nature. Sphinx and Split Rock is on the right. Half way up the mountain is the Fudge Shop, Animal Habitats, Nature Museum and Restaurant. The Animal Habitat houses black bears, river otters, cougars, Eagles, and white-tail deer. The mountain is also habitat for as many as 200 different bird species. Just pass that is the Cliffside picnic area with spectacular views. Black Rock parking area is the starting point for over 12 miles of alpine trails through Grandfather Mountain backcountry, including a trail up to the swinging bridge. Once you pass Black Rock parking area the road has several switchbacks with some hairpin curves to the top. The building at the mountain top parking lot house a gift shop, restrooms, and an elevator to the swinging bridge. The swinging bridge was put in place in 1952. It is America's highest suspension footbridge at 228 ft and spans 80 ft chasm at more than 1 mile in elevation. The galvanized steel connects to Calloway Peak at 5946 ft with breathtaking views. During high winds the swinging bridge will sing.

Linville Gorge
From Charlotte take N-16 N to I-40 W to US-64 N to NC-181 N to NC-183. Service Road 1238 will be on the left with a well marked sign pointing the way. As soon as you turn in onto this dirt road Linville Falls parking lot and trail head will be on the left. Stopping here and walking to the falls is a must. Further down the service road an informational cabin with a kiosk and restroom privies is on the right. All along this dirt road is pull-offs for car camping, parking for several trail heads, and a Wiseman's View. The Wiseman's View is a quick walk from the parking lot to a breathtaking birds eye view into Linville Gorge. Fishing Linville river is Hatchery Supported / Wild Trout and provides great fishing with some nice pools for rainbow, brown and brook trout. Camping is free. The Service Road 1238 will continue a few miles down the mountain to Lake James.